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Those who have seen Cartier's collections of jewelry or accessories at least once will never forget them. With the light hand of the British monarch Edward VII, this fashion house received its famous motto: “Jeweler of Kings and King of Jewelers”.
Neither crowned persons, nor multimillionaires, nor outstanding cultural figures have been able to resist Cartier magic. Admirers of this company were Marlene Dietrich and Coco Chanel, Igor Stravinsky and Sergei Diaghilev, Elizabeth Taylor and Peggy Guggenheim, Maria Felix and Marilyn Monroe. These days, Cartier products are still the subject of dreams, they represent luxury and indicate belonging to the upper class of society.
The founder of the Cartier house was Louis-François, the son of a poor bourgeois from Paris. Louis-Francois Cartier’s father was engaged in the production and sale of gunpowder cones, an occupation in demand, although not very profitable.
But his son showed artistic talent, and from a young age, Louis-Francois studied with the jeweler Picard Adolphe. This hobby caused discontent on the part of the mother of the future jewelry star because at that time working with gunpowder was a more practical and in-demand business. Be that as it may, in 1847 Cartier started his own business, and by 1853 had already acquired his own jewelry workshop in a fairly passable place - not far from the Paris Stock Exchange.
But Cartier's success was a matter of chance because there were plenty of good jewelers in Paris in the 19th century. The start of Louis-Francois's career was set by two women who were Countess Nieverkerk and Countess Demidova, who accidentally dropped into Cartier's store. It was they who became the largest clients of the jeweler, and then made him a fashionable person at the imperial court. By the time, he gained the glory of the supplier of Emperor’s court.
In 1874, Louis-François handled his jewelry business to his only heir, Alfred, who removed the Cartier store to the most profitable part of the city of Paris. Since that time, the Cartier brand residence had an address on Rue de la Paix. Till the end of XIX century, Alfred was ruling Cartier jewelry company and then, it was time for his three sons to get in the game. By the way, their names became a part of Cartier promo over the world. The oldest of Cartier sons, Lois-Joseph was connected with the headquarter of the fashion house in Paris, his younger brothers, Pierre and Jacques were standing for New York division of Cartier, settles on the 5th Ave. and with London division of the brand.
At the same time, at the end of the 19th century, Cartier first released an optical accessory. It was an exquisite tortoise-shell lorgnette, richly inlaid with diamonds, commissioned by the maid of honor of the imperial court. But before the mass production of glasses, which have become one of the brand's business cards, it was still far away.
The beginning of the twentieth century was marked for Cartier by expansion into world markets. Already in 1904, the middle of the Cartier brothers opened a branch of the company in London, and almost immediately the Cartier jewelry house became the official supplier of the English royal court. And three years later, the brand became the official supplier of other royal families in Europe.
In 1908, another branch was opened - the American one.
And in 1910, Cartier's corporate logo was officially registered in the form of two intertwined letters C.
By the way, it was from the first decade of the twentieth century that the production of Cartier accessories began in addition to jewelry. The foundation was laid in 1906 when Louis Cartier presented to the public the first example of a women's watch in a case adorned with precious stones. At first, the watch did not become popular but over time (and largely thanks to Louis Cartier's friend Albert S. Dumont) men's watch models became successful, and the Cartier brand became not only the flagship of jewelry but also one of the largest competitors in the field of chronometer production and watches of the premium segment.
At the same time, Cartier became one of the leading jewelry houses, whose products were worn by representatives of the aristocracy and royal houses.
By the peculiarities of Cartier jewelry, you can safely study the trend directions in the jewelry art of the beginning of the last century. As an ardent admirer of French classicism, Louis Cartier, in contrast to the dominant at the dawn of the last century, Art Nouveau, invents garland-style jewelry, the complex ornament of which refers to the jewelry of the era of Louis XVI. To enhance the brilliance of diamonds on tiaras, necklaces and brooches, Cartier for the first time uses light, flexible and pliable platinum instead of gold and silver, which perfectly reflects light. The combination of platinum and diamonds, now considered a classic, was innovative at the time.
The next take-off of the company was jewelry in the Art Deco style, which combined a craving for external ornamental luxury with thoughtful rationality of function and structure.
In the first half of the 1920s, Cartier began working with colored stones and turned to Egyptian, Indian and Chinese motives. Passion for India and cooperation with maharajas will lead to the creation of the famous tutti-frutti style in the 1930s as if woven from precious stones - Indian rubies, sapphires, emeralds, carved in the form of flowers, berries and leaves. Tutti-frutti style is still classified as one of the most complex jewelry techniques.
One of the most remarkable Cartier motifs is the panther. Back in 1914, the artists of the company, inspired by the drawing of the skin of this magnificent animal, created an ornament from black onyx and diamonds. The mottled panther pattern, which appeared on round wristwatches in 1914, and later on jewelry, became the hallmark of Cartier. The most famous piece of jewelry with this cat is a panther brooch made of sapphires and diamonds sitting on a huge sapphire cabochon; it was made by Cartier in 1947 for the Duchess of Windsor.
In 1942, the famous Cartier Bird in a Cage brooch was created. The product symbolizes the Nazi-occupied France during the Second World War. In honor of the liberation of the country, Cartier made a brooch, which they named The Liberated Bird.
And there will be no Cartier without its watch division. Watches by Cartier are considered to be in TOP of the most expansive and the most luxurious watch brands being a counterparty to many Swiss brands. In 1904, Brazilian aviator Alberto Santos-Dumont complained to his friend Louis Cartier about the impracticality and inconvenience of using a pocket watch while flying. In response to a complaint, Louis Cartier produced a flat wristwatch with a characteristic square bezel. The product was liked not only by Santos-Dumont, but also by other clients of the jeweler, who gladly ordered the model for themselves. This is how the first wrist watch for men from Cartier was born, named after Santos. Since that time, watches by Cartier were developing rapidly. In 1912, the Baignoire and Tortue watch models (which are still in production) were introduced, and in 1917 the brand presented the Tank watch, designed by Louis Cartier, inspired by the new tank models introduced on the Western Front. This watch model has also survived to this day, and over the years has been presented in more than 30 different variations.
In the early 1920s, Cartier entered into an agreement with Edward Jaeger of Jaeger-LeCoultre, according to which he produced elements only for Cartier watches. During the same period, Cartier began to number every watch sold with a four-digit code.
World War II negatively affected the prosperity of many jewelry houses. But for Cartier, it turned into a real disaster because all three Cartier brothers died: Louis and Pierre in 1942, Jacques a little later. After that, each of the three main divisions (Paris, London and New York) began to exist completely autonomously.
After the death of Louis Cartier, who was in charge of the main division of Maison Cartier in Paris, management passed to its manager Jeanne Toussaint, a designer who gave Cartier many symbolic and recognizable elements in the jewelry line. She was called the Panther due to her grace and art sense and she gave Cartier its most remarkable symbol – a panther, namely. And Louis' son, Claude Cartier, in 1948 took over the management of the American branch of the company.
It was only in 1979 that all Cartier branches were merged into a concern that was named Cartier World. First, in 1972, the Paris division was bought out by an international investment group. In 1976, she also bought out the London Cartier, and in 1979 the third of Cartier branches was under the same management.
At the same time, the Cartier brand moved away from the principle of producing only luxury goods and jewelry, which had been faithfully following for almost 100 years. As a result, accessories for men and women, perfumes, bags were added to the range of products. But the classics were not forgotten in the Cartier house either. It was in the 70s that many classic watch designs had to be renewed, and the old collections found a "second wind".
The direction focused on the creation of exclusive haberdashery, perfumery and accessories under the Cartier brand was named Cartier Must. The same name was given to numerous boutiques of the jewelry house, which were opened at that time. Cartier stores have opened in 20+ countries around the world. The largest boutiques were opened in Shanghai, Tokyo, Vancouver, San Francisco, Milan, Paris and Rome.
By the way, the first perfume, designed by Cartier, was named the Pantere like an honor to the non-official symbol of the House – the panther of gold with diamond inlay. That element was the most recognizable since the first decade of the XX century when it became a part of Lois Cartier’s masterpieces.
In 1993, the parent company, Vendome Luxury Group, was formed with brands such as Cartier, Alfred Dunhill, Montblanc, Piaget, Baume & Mercier, Karl Lagerfeld, Chloe, Sulka, Hackett and Seeger.
In 1994, the company presented the collection Les Charms d'Or de Cartier ("The Charm of Cartier Gold"), characterized by Art Deco notes, the theme of Great Russia and adorned with pearls.
Today the Cartier brand is part of the Swiss luxury goods company Richemont Group. The number of brand stores has exceeded 200, and Cartier offices are open in 125 countries.
Cartier's first optical jewelry was created in 1897, 50 years after the company was founded. Among the brightest optical works of "Cartier" are a gold lorgnette with diamonds and rubies made for Prince Lobanov in 1902, a gold lorgnette with a diamond monogram of the Grand Duke Vladimir, crafted in 1912, platinum glasses with diamonds for Prince Yusupov (1913), a lorgnette from yellow gold with an enamel pattern in the form of a tiger skin, made for the Duchess of Windsor in 1954.
A curious story is connected with Cartier jewelry glasses, according to which the constant rivalry between Coco Channel and Janna Lanvin for the right to be called the first fashion lady prompted the latter to order her glasses from Louis Cartier. For her, the jeweler created a model Panthere, made of white gold and inlaid with 127 dark diamonds, the so-called sauvage diamonds, weighing 1.3 carats, with 429 white diamonds weighing 3.2 carats. The panther's eyes were replaced by sapphires. And while Jeanne Lanvin was sporting glasses, Mademoiselle Gabrielle was forced to be content with a lorgnette.
Currently, the collection of spectacle optics Cartier, along with items made of massive gold and inlaid with precious stones (items of this class, as a rule, are made to order), includes frames and sunglasses, clad with precious metals: gold, platinum, ruthenium etc.
And the breakout of optical accessories came in 1983, when the first Lunettes design was created.
The design of the new collection's sunglasses, which range from traditional oval to rectangular shapes, evoke jewelry design elements. This time, the creators of the glasses are turning to the panther decor. A number of models are adorned with the Cartier brand name in the form of the letter C, which indicates that the glasses belong to the famous jewelry house, which continues to captivate hearts with the impeccable performance and style of its products.
With the start of the production of goods under the Must sub-brand, Cartier began to expand the range gradually. So, since 1974, the production of leather accessories started in the corporate shade of burgundy that was declared as the official color of the Cartier Must sub-brand. A year later, the first table clock appeared in the assortment - the official opening of the department for interior decoration in Cartier dates back to that time.
Also Cartier, within the framework of the Must strategy, began to rethink the existing models. First, the redesign affected the Tank watch model - in 1976 it came out in a silver case for the first time. Then the rethinking also affected the famous Santos watch, named after a friend of Louis Cartier, the man who brought popularity to the brand's watches.
And in 1983, Cartier presented a collection of glasses - these were the famous Lunettes. For this collection, the designers have combined both product divisions (Must and Vendome) with two signature designs - Tank and Santos. The first models, like the watch designs that inspired them, were intended exclusively for men. But the purely female Lunettes from Cartier saw the world three years later. By that time, men's glasses had already received as many as three designs: the recognizable Laque was added to Tank and Santos.
As Cartier Jewelry House was always famous for accurate and exquisite work with gold, platinum and silver, its eyewear division was not a mass-market one. Each pair of Lunettes was a real gem. That tradition continued further as in 1987 first frames for reading glasses by Cartier were presented. Then, it was time for two more designs of sunglasses. It was the Tank Louis Cartier designed for man and S=Sapphire with sapphire inlay for women.
And of course, it will not be Cartier without its corporate symbol – a panther. In 1989, Lunette Panthere sunglasses came to the world.
In 1990s Lunettes by Cartier were developing rapidly as the remarkable collection of the Boix Precieux was presented in 1991. From that time, Cartier uses composite materials in sunglasses and frames design.
In 1993 Cartier presented two designs of composite frames (Vertigo and Conquete subsequently). And in autumn, there were two more models of rimless frames presented. A year later, Lunettes were accomplished by demi-rimless designs of frames.
We’ve gathered the maximum information about our favorite Lunettes by Cartier Jewelry House. Here, you can find answers on lots of question concerning that brand.
Q: Are all the models of Lunettes crafted from the solid gold?
A: No, it is not absolutely so. Of course, each design of Lunettes glasses since 1983 is available for purchasing in pure gold, platinum or silver frame. But such examples are exceptionally rare and as usual, they are ordered by a customer personally. In boutiques of the brand you can purchase models of Lunettes decorated with golden or platinum inlay as with gemstones of different types. Solid gold frame were presented only in collections of High Jewelry, Solid Gold and Jewelry.
Q: What types of materials are used for Lunettes?
A: At the beginning, Cartier designers used precious metals only for their masterpieces. That means, all frames designed in 1983 and further were of gold, silver, platinum. In 90s to the list of materials composits of high quality, wood, ruthenium were added. All the materials used by Cartier for optical accessories are eco-friendly and high-quality only.
Q: How can I understand my Cartier Lunettes are not a fake?
A: To provide security of brand’s origin, Cartier eyewear is embodied with serial number and reference catalog number engraved on the frame. This rule is actual even for vintage Lunettes. On some models there is also a year engraved on the bridge. For example, vintage Vendome model of 1983 is always marked with the year.
Q: How can I manage with Lunettes collections as there are so many of them?
A: Cartier made unique accessories in different designs basically inspired by watch designs. In brief, there are two main divisions in Cartier optical accessories: Vendome and Must. The first one is more luxurious and the last is of more modern type. For each divisions there are different designs available. The main vintage designs are Santos, Tank, Laque etc. Each combo of division and design can be presented in different collections from the most exclusive, such as Solid Gold collection, Gold Finish Collection, High Jewelry Collection or Platinum Finish Collection, to the modern ones including Precious Wood Collection, Composite collection. The name of collection encloses which type of material is used for glasses. And you can easily manage with Lunettes if you remember the rule that standard collections are frames for eyewear. Besides them, there are rimless collection, semi-rimless models, collections with thin rims or standard rims.
Cartier is a brand that doesn’t need to be introduced. It is a real symbol of aristocracy and luxury proved by 150 years of talented and exceptionally fruitful work of Cartier family and designers.
If you, like us, are fascinated by the signature flair and sophistication of glasses and frames from Cartier, we will be glad to see you among our customers. Our online store searches for and collects unique frames and sunglasses from the best fashion houses in the world. We scrutinize every pair we get our hands on and offer our customers only original Cartier Lunettes frames, manufactured since 1983. Thanks to our passion and perfectionism, our catalog contains the best models in perfect condition, from basic Cartier Lunettes Composite lines to unique pieces inlaid with precious stones and metals, limited edition models, frames in solid gold or platinum.
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